Free raw feeding tool
Figure out exactly how much meat, bone, and organs your dog needs each day. No guesswork, no spreadsheets. Just enter the weight and go.
Calculate portionsEnter your dog's details below. The calculator uses the 80/10/10 BARF ratio to break down daily amounts of muscle meat, edible bone, and secreting organs.
The idea behind raw feeding is simple: dogs evolved eating whole prey. The 80/10/10 split tries to replicate that in a way you can actually do at home.
This is the bulk of the diet. It covers protein and fat. "Muscle meat" includes more than just steak cuts. Heart, tongue, tripe, gizzards, and cheek meat all count here. Rotating between beef, chicken, turkey, lamb, and fish over the week gives your dog a wider range of amino acids and fatty acids than sticking to one protein.
Bone is where calcium and phosphorus come from. Only feed raw bones and only the kind your dog can actually chew and swallow. Chicken necks, duck frames, and rabbit ribs work well for most dogs. Avoid weight-bearing bones from large animals (like beef femurs) since they can crack teeth. And never feed cooked bones because they splinter.
Organs are the multivitamin of a raw diet. At least half of this 10% should be liver, which is packed with vitamin A, B vitamins, and iron. The other half can be kidney, spleen, pancreas, or brain. Start with small amounts because liver especially can cause loose stool if introduced too fast.
You don't need to nail the ratio in every single meal. What matters is the average over a week or two. Monday's bowl might be mostly chicken thighs, while Tuesday has more bone-in content. That's fine. Think of it like your own diet: you don't eat a perfectly balanced plate at every meal, but the week evens out.
That said, there are some things 80/10/10 doesn't cover well on its own, like manganese, zinc, vitamin E, and omega-3 fatty acids. Adding oily fish (sardines, mackerel) once or twice a week and rotating proteins helps fill those gaps. Some people also add a small amount of vegetables or a supplement. There's no single right answer here.
The percentage of body weight your dog needs changes as they grow. Here's a breakdown based on age and activity.
| Life stage | % of body weight per day | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Puppy (under 4 months) | 8-10% | Growing fast, needs lots of fuel. Split into 3-4 meals. |
| Puppy (4-8 months) | 6-8% | Growth slows down a bit. 3 meals per day works well. |
| Puppy (8-12 months) | 4-6% | Approaching adult size. Start transitioning to 2 meals. |
| Adult (1-7 years) | 2-3% | Most adults do well at 2.5%. Adjust based on condition. |
| Senior (7+ years) | 1.5-2.5% | Less active, lower metabolism. Watch weight closely. |
Adult dogs typically eat 2-3% of their ideal body weight per day. A 30 kg dog would eat roughly 600-900 grams of food daily. Active or working dogs may need closer to 3-4%, while senior or less active dogs do well at 1.5-2%. Puppies need much more relative to their size: 5-10% depending on age.
These are starting points. The real test is your dog's body condition. If you can feel the ribs without pressing hard but can't see them, the amount is probably right.
Dogs have shorter digestive tracts and more acidic stomachs than humans, which helps them handle raw meat. Millions of dogs eat raw diets without issues. That said, contamination is possible. Buy meat from reputable sources, keep it frozen until use, and clean bowls and surfaces after preparing meals. Common sense food safety applies.
If your dog is immunocompromised or on medication that affects their immune system, check with your vet before starting raw.
Yes, but puppies have more specific nutritional needs than adults. They need more food relative to their body weight (5-10%) and require careful attention to calcium-to-phosphorus ratio for proper bone development. Large breed puppies in particular can run into joint problems if calcium is too high or too low during growth.
If you're new to raw feeding, getting guidance from a vet or canine nutritionist for a puppy's first year is a good idea.
No. Most raw feeders aim for balance over the course of a week or two, not in every bowl. One day might be mostly meat, the next might include more bone. As long as the averages come out close to 80/10/10 over time, that works. Rotating between different protein sources (beef, chicken, turkey, lamb, fish, duck) over the week also helps cover micronutrient gaps.
BARF (Biologically Appropriate Raw Food) includes vegetables, fruits, and sometimes dairy or eggs alongside meat, bone, and organs. Prey model raw (PMR) sticks strictly to animal products: meat, bone, and organs with no plant matter. The 80/10/10 ratio comes from the PMR side of things, though many BARF feeders use it as a base and add 10-20% vegetables on top.
Both approaches have their advocates. This calculator uses the 80/10/10 base. If you want to add veggies, treat them as extra rather than replacing the meat/bone/organ portions.
Variety matters. Try to use at least 3-4 different protein sources per month. Common options: chicken, beef, turkey, pork, lamb, duck, rabbit, and fish. Each brings different nutrient profiles. Beef liver, for instance, has more copper than chicken liver. Fish adds omega-3 fatty acids you won't get from land animals. Rotating keeps the diet more complete without needing supplements.
Bulk buying and freezing is the most practical approach. Portion out a week or two's worth of meals into containers or zip bags and store them in the freezer. Move the next day's food to the fridge to thaw overnight. Most raw feeders prep once a week and stack containers in the fridge for daily use.
A kitchen scale, a chest freezer, and some reusable containers are basically the only gear you need.
This calculator was built for people who feed their dogs raw food and got tired of doing the same math on a napkin every time they adjust portions or add a new dog. It uses the 80/10/10 ratio (also called PMR or prey model raw) and adjusts daily intake based on life stage and activity level.
It's free, it runs in your browser, and no data leaves your device. The tool should work for most healthy dogs, but it's not a substitute for professional veterinary advice, especially for puppies, dogs with health conditions, or when making significant dietary changes.
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